Pinning your stripe.
By now you must have concluded that I am the world’s laziest sewer. And this conclusion will now confirm it. I do not baste except under extreme circumstances. Instead, I have developed a broad knowledge of pins. There are T-pins, craft pins, silk pins, regular pins, and really cheap pins that bend when you look at them. I used my craft pins for this project, because they are long, and strong enough to handle the thickness of the fabric plus the lining. The pins are also helpful in aligning the lines of the stripe to ensure a straight line through the seam. I have a love/hate relationship with plaids, and before learning about the walking foot, spent many a tearful hour, sewing and ripping out the seams to get them aligned. Through this experience, I learned that long needles are very helpful. My trick is this.
Align the fabric according to the pattern.
Place pin through center of line.
Pin through center of line design in the exact same place, top through to bottom.
Take a stitch following the same technique as above through to the top piece.
I will pin baste the pieces together until I come to a stripe. Then, I will put the pin through the center of the stripe on one side of the piece, and poke the pin through making sure that it goes into the exact same stripe, into the center, and tack it down by pinning through the center of the line on the top piece making sure that the point ends up through the center of the bottom line. I make sure the pin is aligned far enough past the seam allowance so that there will be no movement of the lines being sewn together.
After I have pinned the lines together, I visualize and make sure that the pattern will be properly aligned with the seam allowance, and to make sure all the vertical and horizontal lines have been joined. Then…I sew.
Sewing the coat
Well, it had to happen. Now we sew. This of course requires a strong upholstery thread and denim needle. But outside of that, the pattern, even with the lining, doesn't take any longer than 30 minutes. The lining is sewn to the outside of the coat edges, so there is virtually no finishing to do. As a rule I will not sew my lining to the bottom of the coat. Gravity, not being our friend at this point, I will hem the fabric and the lining separately so that when the eventual sagging occurs, I can just quickly redo the hem.
Because the fabric is so thick, I knew that I would not be able to put in a nice button hole. This is why I opted for the frogs, and they complemented the collar nicely. There are, however, any number of links that can be used, metal, leather etc.
After you have finished sewing, place your frogs aligned to your markings for the buttons and the button holes. Generally the loop of the frog will be on the wearer’s right side, and the “round thingy” on the left side. I used upholstery thread, and a zigzag stitch to tack them down. But with some, you will need to hand sew.
And there! Within two hours at the most, you have a good looking, versatile and flattering coat that should survive many seasons.
Vogue 8780, can take you very nicely into spring, with the right fabric.
Next week we will turn to spring, and pattern V8780. Before I decide on fabric, I will usually run a Google search on the fashion trends for the season. I think I have come up with some good looks, and fabrics. Some are included here but more are on my Pinterest site.
There seems to be a focus on sharp angles, softened with shapeless fabrics like satin, silk or voile. The short front of the coat helps to create this look, while eliminating fabric to avoid bulk. Very light floating coats made from satins, silks, charmeuse and even sheers like organza, georgette, chiffon, voile, netting, etc. are very popular. Although this pattern is intended for double sided fleece fabric, any of these fabrics would be fine. Because fleece is a thicker fabric, you will have to make an adjustment to the pattern. But, that can easily be done by taking a larger seam allowance.
The advantage of V8780 for larger women, is that it gives a great fashionably angular look, with less fabric and thus, less bulk. The following are runway fashions I thought would be helpful in selecting the fabric, and the look of the pattern. Can you see where I'm headed?
Thank you for joining me today, and we will take a closer look at pattern V8780 next week. Until then, God Bless.