nOW, LET'S GET STARTED
So finally, we arrive at Butterick pattern 5093. This pattern, although an answer to prayer, is the exception to the rule pronounced last week. With this coat, there are no set in sleeves, and there is a seam down the back. But, because this tapestry design has a recurring boarder the length of the fabric, I couldn't have asked for a more perfect pattern. Trying to match inset sleeves to the pattern would not have been pleasant, and, as I began to lay the fabric down to match, I realized I didn't have enough fabric. Cutting sleeves in one piece requires more fabric because you have a specialized very large pattern piece, however, because of the boarders at the top, it let me align one of the boarders along the length of the coat and sleeves, allowing for a very nice continuous look.
I made a few adjustments, but--made with frogs, this pattern should not take you more than 30 to 45 minutes from cutting to sewing. It only has four pieces and a collar. I did add a lining, and that took a little longer in the cutting. I left out the collar and only sewed the sides and back together separately, the rest was sewn as one piece to the fabric.
ONE NOTE: As the pattern has been discontinued, you may be asking, why am I covering it. The reason--pattern makers are an incestuous lot, as a matter of fact, Butterick is part of McCalls, Kwik Sew and Vogue and Simplicity owns the rest. You will see this pattern again, I promise--it may be in different fabric, buttons, pockets and model--but you will see the pattern again.
This pattern is an exception to the rule as it has a seem down the back and does not have set in sleeves.
Frogs come in many shapes and sizes but are a very easy and decorative solution to buttons and button holes.
Craft pins—I do a lot of pin basting, which is to say that I do not separately tack down my fabric with thread. As a result, I prefer to use pins that are long and strong enough to hold the fabric in place. That is why craft pins are better to use. In home dec you will find T-pins, but these do the same thing, and the colored balls are easier to find when dropped.
Walking foot—for my machine, which is now almost twenty years old, a separate attachment is needed for sewing plaids. Check will your machine manufacturer to see if this attachment is needed or available. If it is “available” I’m willing to bet it is "needed." They can be pricey, but are worth the money. In normal sewing the pressure foot will push the top layer slightly further than the bottom layer. When you are trying to match lines, this can be a nightmare because lines, even a millimeter off, can be very noticeable. The walking foot keeps the top and bottom fabrics aligned so matching can be exact for both top and bottom.
Chalk—marking the button holes is a must with coat patterns.
Upholstery thread and needle--The thick tapestry fabric needs the stronger thread.
This is a brother walking foot, but they all pretty much look the same.
Washing the fabric
Because this is a tapestry and prone to excessive fraying, I zigzagged the uncut ends of the fabric before washing. I didn't worry about the lining, a crepe polyester. I washed both the fabric and the lining to take out all the shrink (yes, even polyester can have shrink). Both fabrics were shown no mercy, and washed in hot water, general cycle, and then thrown into the dryer.
The tapestry had been sitting on the self for a while, and turned much brighter. Furthermore, the shrinking gave the coat a great texture.
Changes I made to the pattern
Used Frogs instead of buttons—My stripped down White sewing machine can muscle its way through most fabric, but it doesn't do button holes well on the easiest of fabrics, a thick upholstery fabric with lining would have been too much. So I opted for the frogs.
Length of the coat—The design of the fabric extended longer than the length of the coat, but as I usually have to lengthen patterns, that worked out well.
Lining—The pattern does not call for lining, however, the back of the fabric is rough and would be hard on the skin.
Thank you for joining me, next week we will look at placement of the pattern, until then, God Bless.