Metallic thread
Heavy duty polyester thread
Standard needle (possible denim needle)
Long craft pins
Ribbon, amount to be calculated as set out below.
1/4 of yard of faux fur for the cuff

Calculating Ribbon
It occurs to me that I didn't review how much ribbon you should get---and---the first question you have to ask is what do you want to make.  The outdoor ribbon I purchased comes in 25 yard rolls which sounds a lot until you start weaving your fabric.  The good news is that there is very little loss of length or width as you weave.  Therefore, calculate the length and width of your project.  Cut the length of your ribbon about 1" to 1 1/2" longer than the length.   Measuring the width of your ribbon, calculate the number of ribbon pieces you will need to achieve the width.  

You will want to work within the limitations of the width of your ribbon, as to calculating the width of your project.  You will not want to cut the ribbon width because, then you will need to hem the sides cut, which defeats the advantage of using ribbons.  So for example, it you have 3" ribbon, and you want 17" placemats, find contentment in either an 18" placemat or a 15" placemat.  

Next, calculate total yardage from your lengths, and that will let you know how much ribbon you will need.  Therefore, if your placemat is 15" wide and 18" long, each placemat requires five strips of 18" ribbon which means each placemat will be 2 1/2 yards of ribbon.  As you lose a little of your fabric each time it is cut, anticipate 2 3/4 yards when calculating total yardage of the ribbon.  I made thirteen placemats, one 36" by 36" table topper and two stockings out of 2 25 yard rolls of outdoor ribbon.  
Align your horizontal rows.  Pin one end down.  Because the ribbon is thin, I pinned horizontally along the ribbon.

Put in your vertical row, and lay down the pulled ribbons, pulling up the alternating rows not pulled.

Continue until the desired size and width

Pull back every other row

Place your next vertical ribbon pulling it  toward the first.

Weaving the fabric with the large width ribbon is much easier than thin satin ribbon, the texture of the outdoor ribbon is abrasive so there is very little slipping and sliding, and the width allows you to create a project in no time.  You can actually weave the vertical ribbon through  without having to pull back the horizontal layers.

This is one reason why I left the wire in the ribbon as I wove the fabric.  The wire gives the ribbon more body. and makes it easier to weave.  I also left it in for the sewing, as the forms kept their shape well enough to sew with only pinning, and no basting is needed.  

So, why did I use satin ribbon as an example?  Because if you can absolutely not find ribbon to your taste, use the satin ribbon.  It is more effort, but the advantage is that it can be washed, it is more flexible, and therefore, more usable as opposed to decorative.  The most time in working with the satin will be spent weaving it.  Below I discuss the use of Wonder Under which will take the headache out of assembling.  

Everyone goes about weaving in their own way, I place down horizontal strips and pin one side.  I then lift which ever strips are appropriate to weave the vertical row.

Done, you will need to pin bast the outside edges.  When sewing you do have to be careful to go over the wire, or risk breaking your needle.  In fact, the wire is so soft that it will more likely bend before breaking the needle, but a high speed could break the needle.  If you sew slowly, there should be no problems.  I used a standard needle.  The plastic coating on the outdoor fabric is a little tougher to break through, but a new standard needle will have no problem.

In cutting the ribbon for the stocking, I wasted very little ribbon, using the pattern as my guide, I cut about  1" longer than needed, then after pinning the woven pieces together, I cut the stocking according to the pattern.  

Use an old pair of scissors as the wire will make a mess of the blades.  

At this point you have several options as to how to prepare the fabric for sewing.  If you are using 1/2" satin ribbon you will need to baste the pieces together or the fabric will slide on you as you sew, and you will need far too many pins to safely sew over them without breaking your machine needle.  You can also use tear away, stabilizers which have a temporary adhesive when ironed onto the back of the fabric, and will help hold it in place while you sew.  Wonder under offers a double sided web adhesive, so if you wish to line the stocking or your placemats, you can place the adhesive in between the lining and fabric backing and iron them together.  

I did not line my stockings, and after I cut them out, simply zigzagged the outsides together with gold thread.   Because the project is small enough, the outside seams are adequate to hold the woven pieces together.

The topper and the placemats are just stitched 1/2"-3/4" from the ends all around with heavy duty polyester thread. (If you find your thread starts catching, or your stitches just will not correct, switch to a denim needle, that should solve the problem.)

I have allowed for you to use faux fur for the stocking cuff, but, use what ever you would like.  I used a contrasting ribbon. 

Cut a 4" piece of 1/2"  inch ribbon (to be used as tab).

Assembling the stocking is fairly simple.  Cut two of the foot and two of the cuff.  Top stitch the front and back sides of the stocking together at the center seam.  Sew the the cuff, right sides together, at the center seam, and iron the seam flat.  You will want to flip the cuff down over the stocking, so that the right side is showing.  Therefore, as you would with sewing in a shoulder.  Align the center seam of the cuff with the center seam of the stocking, now, pin the cuff inside the stocking.  

Taking the 4 " ribbon previously cut, fold it in half, and pin the ribbon to the back of the stocking, the loop horizontal to the stocking and cuff to use as a tab.     Sew the cuff along the top  to the stocking with a 1/4" seam allowance.

Take out all the wire.

Flip the cuff up and turn in the unfinished sides and bottom of the cuff, and finish with zigzag stitch and decorative thread, now flip the cuff down over the stocking.  Stitch the back of the stocking, and again, zigzagging with decorative thread on the outside.

And--c'est tout, you are done.  Consistent with my deep rooted philosophy on sewing, QPP, quick, painless and passible. Please let me know how the project turned out, or if you had any problems.   

Thanks for visiting with me today, and please check out my new collections.




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