Fleece is the recommended fabric for the pattern, but, use it only if you want to look like a linebacker. I used moleskin, which is satiny on one side, and a micro fiber on the other. You do need to work with a double sided fabric, because the border flips half way up. The moleskin worked beautifully. The fabric gave the jacket a nice elegant drape. Because moleskin needs to be finished, I put a ruffle on jacket A and glued a trim to the edge of Jacket B.
With great deliberation and diligence, I managed to sew my pleats in the wrong direction. It actually looks better than the original design. The inverted pleats make the border interesting, yet eliminates the bulk pleats would have added.
I made a pair of elastic waist straight pants to go with the jackets, and love to wear the suits. Flattering from all angles, they take no more than 2 hours from cutting out to sewing (if you throw out the instructions, and do what makes sense) and are very comfortable to wear.
One further note. Because the front and back sew together to make the sleeve, you will want to be a little more careful in aligning the pattern on your fabric. I had a paisley print which usually requires very little matching. However, a stripe or a plaid would.
I made jacket D with some left over fleece material. Although the pattern doesn't call for it, I sewed in a parka zipper and double top stitched the seams to give the jacket a little more structure. The jacket is more fitted than the pictures indicate, and falls well bellow the hip. Because of this design, the jacket doesn't tend to catch on my rear the way some longer, lighter weighted fleece jackets can.
I have frequently worn these suits and believe you will to.
- Conceptually this pattern should be very simple with only four pieces. The sleeves are dolmen, and you sew, for lack of a better word, a boarder around the outer shell. This one very long seam will make up the collar, lapel, lower and back of the jacket. The border is to be sewn and then, the seam allowance ironed flat toward the inside of the jacket. You are then supposed to top stitch the seam down. This is where the directions are not very clear. I would suggest turning the seam in on itself, iron, pinning the fold to the jacket and top stitching the seam allowance down. The area will be a little stiff but, should do fine.
- Without reading ahead, I cut the seam allowance to a 1/4” and had nothing to sew the 1/2” seam. I ended up doing French seams for the parts that show.
Let me know if you give the pattern a try....